Erica Lovelace

View Original

Savory Leek & Green Pea Budino

Leek and pea budino topped with Parmesan cream sauce and broccoli blossoms.

Italian budinos are the epitome of indulgence and comfort.

With their velvety texture and rich flavors, these custard-based desserts have been enchanting taste buds for centuries. Translated as "puddings" in English, budinos have a special place in Italian culinary tradition. In cooking school, we learned how to make both sweet and savory versions. Made with a base of milk, eggs, sugar, and flavorings, Italian budinos are typically baked or steamed on the stovetop to achieve their delectable consistency. More often than not I have seen sweet versions of this rich dish, like caramel or chocolate, but I think more people should try savory combinations.

Once you’ve mastered a few tricks, you can pretty much add any flavors to this recipe. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

  • When mixing your custard base and flavor agents, avoid the temptation of using a blender. Blending the custard will create loads of air bubbles resulting in a lumpy custard

  • Strain the mixture through a fine sieve or Chinois into your pre-greased ramekins

  • Use a hot spoon or a pastry torch to remove air bubbles from the surface of your budinos before steaming

Budinos are a great first course for a dinner party because you can make them in advance, cover them tightly, and gently reheat just before you serve to your guests. The Parmesan cream sauce is a little extra but I find that adding the finishing sauce really creates the “wow” factor with the crowd. Some other savory flavor combinations I would highly recommend include butternut squash, broccoli & cheese, artichoke & truffle or summer corn.

Ingredients for the Budino

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

  • 3/4 cup frozen peas

  • 1 leek, trimmed of dark green parts and root

  • 4 eggs

  • 4 egg yolks

  • 3 cups half & half

  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

  • 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

  • Canola or vegetable oil for greasing the ramekins

Ingredients for the Parmesan Cream Sauce

  • 1 cup heavy cream

  • 1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

  • 2 tablespoon dry sherry

  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  • 1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt

  • Broccoli flowers, for garnishing

Special Equipment

Makes 4 budinos, assuming 4-6 oz ramekins

Directions for Budino

  1. Cut the leek in half and then slice into half moon shapes. Place slices of leek into water to remove any sand or sediment. After a few minutes, strain the water, and transfer to a small pan over medium heat. Sauté the leeks in a tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of water until they are soft, about five minutes. Then, add the frozen peas and sauté for another two minutes. Blend the vegetables until you get a soft smooth paste. Set aside to cool.

  2. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and half & half. Season with freshly ground nutmeg and Kosher salt. Add in your cooled vegetable puree. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve or Chinois, to remove any sediment, into pre-greased ramekins.

  3. Using a hot spoon or pastry torch to remove the air bubbles from the tops of the budinos before placing on top of a steaming rack. Steam on high heat with the cover slightly ajar on the pot for 15-18 minutes. Check on the texture of the budino periodically. The center should have a slight jiggle when you remove it from the steamer as it will finish cooking as it cools. Use a pairing knife to release the edges of the custard from the ramekin. Set aside to cool while you make the Parmesan cream sauce.

  4. In a small sauce pot, warm the heavy cream over medium high heat until it coats the back of a spoon. Add the Parmesan cheese, black pepper, and sherry.

  5. To serve, turn out each budino out onto a plate. Do this by putting a plate on the bottom of the ramekin before flipping over. You can gently tap the ramekin to encourage the custard to slide out. Spoon a bit of the sauce over each budino and top with the broccoli flowers. Enjoy!

Artichoke budino from Boulevard in San Francisco studded with black truffles and fried artichoke chips.